Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 in Reviews

Posted by on Nov 9, 2014 in Global View | No Comments

 

SS15: Recession Impacts Italian Fashion

 

Milan recently finished a highly debated spring summer 2015 season showcase, which met varying degrees of critical success. The articles we’ve gathered for our Milan Fashion Week summary offer polarising, controversial and at times negative reviews of the major collections. Does this mixed bag signal a disappointing future for Italian fashion, or is it symptomatic of fashion criticism being out of tune with the commercial reality of the industry?

So far the Italian luxury industry has flourished amidst a national recession, yet the economic climate in Italy seems to be impacting its SS15 fashion in subtle ways.

Thought to be a side effect of the country’s financial woes, spring summer 2015 comes attached to altered consumer trends, with conservative attitudes impacting more than just the sales figures. Many of the iconic Italian design houses showing in Milan, such as Prada, Gucci, Versace, Armani and Alberta Ferretti, seemed uncharacteristically subdued, with critics observing that several brands were moving toward a more conservative design aesthetic.

This season saw a shift in the focus of designers, with many taking a retrospective angle and seeking inspiration in days gone by. ‘Days gone by’ meaning one thing this season: The 70s. Max Mara, Prada and Alberta Ferretti all took a trip down memory lane, with themes of independence, freedom and rejection of establishment running throughout their collections.

Perhaps taking cues from Scotland’s independence referendum, which coincided with Milan’s showcase, the cultural significance of these themes weren’t lost on the audience. Unexpected displays of nostalgia through the week left a few scratching their heads and wondering what happened to the ferocity and forward thinking approach that has come to be expected from Italian design.

Fendi provided a welcome change, contrasting the weeks retro focus with laser cuts, geometric shapes and sharp layering that verged on being inspired by science fiction. Prada provided stark contrasts of their own, between this season’s womenswear and June’s menswear collection. Whilst menswear focused on perfection, clean lines and neat suits, womenswear seemed to literally unravel, with patchwork and mismatched materials paired together in Prada’s vision.

Find-out more with our selection of reviews below.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 19, 2014

Max Mara gets nostalgic at Milan fashion week

 

“And while Italian catwalks may be some distance from Scotland’s polling stations, fashion is never far from the zeitgeist. At Milan fashion week, Italian heritage and national pride were the themes of the day. The country’s economy may be in recession for the third time in five years, but its luxury fashion industry continues to buck the decline. Recent figures show a 4% rise in sales, largely due to healthy exports. As a result, the mood in Italian fashion is one of nostalgia.

Read further on The Guardian.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 19, 2014

Prada Milan Fashion Week review: Patchy Prada makes a virtue of showing its stitchwork

 

“However, in emphasising the construction of these garments to such a degree, there seemed to be a glorification of the hand pulling it all together. There’s a certain perfection in imperfection like this, to the idea of clothing thoroughly worked in a way no machine could manage. It’s an emphasis on the craft of fashion, rather than the slickness of the final product. Homeliness has heart.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 19, 2014

A Different Declaration of Independence

 

““Trend” being the operative word. Because that makes it fair game for the industry. So here was Alberta Ferretti saying her collection was about expressing “the sense of freedom possessed by women who think for themselves.” And there was Max Mara, claiming as inspiration “unconventional women who redefined the concept of beauty.” Here was Brunello Cucinelli pursuing his single-minded quest to disprove the idea comfort dressing can’t be elegant …

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 22, 2014

No new blood and no fresh ideas: How do you solve a problem like Milano?

 

“The Milanese leg of the spring/summer 2015 international collections will limp to a close tomorrow, but most of the world’s press and buyers will fly out of the city today. Why? Well, why not? There’s nothing to stay for. Milan Fashion Week is contracting, compressing. This season, the main shows are across five days rather than six, after a number of influential editors (Anna Wintour of American Vogue being the most important) didn’t stay for Monday’s shows last season.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 22, 2014

The Theme at Milan Fashion Week? Look to the Past

 

“The overwhelming trend of the Italian ready-to-wear shows thus far has been memory lane, and very specifically the memory lane of almost four decades ago. For whatever reason — discomfort with what President Obama calls today’s “messy” world and the technology that lets us see it all; a desire to return to what seems in retrospect more manageable times, despite Nixon, the Yom Kippur war and the oil crisis (everything is relative); maybe just Vulcan mind-meld — nostalgia is taking a very literal runway turn.

Read further on The New-York Times.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 22, 2014

In Milan, the Bunga Bunga Has Left the Building

 

“Where has all the sex gone? The tango between dressing to please the Id and dressing to satisfy the Ego that used to define fashion in Milan, with a shimmy here met by a stomp over there, seemed, as the Italian ready-to-wear shows drew to a close on Sunday, to have turned into something of a line dance instead — everyone stepping in time to a more blandly choreographed tune.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Written by Megan Doyle

Megan Doyle

Meg Doyle is a fashion journalist from Perth, Australia. Currently finishing her degree in Journalism and Internet Communication at Curtin University, she also writes the blog Darling, We’re the Young Ones. Meg currently writes for publications across Australia and loves discussing the in’s and out’s of the fashion industry, a world that is complex and fascinating to her.

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