New-York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 in Reviews

Posted by on Nov 9, 2014 in Global View | No Comments

 

New-York Fashion Week SS15: ‘Trippy, Intoxicating, Buzz-Inducing Fashion’ or ‘Frozen Lasagne’?

 
Spring and Summer 2015 collections were shown at New York Fashion Week between the 4th and the 11th of September. Below is a selection of reviews of various designers presented at New York Fashion Week previously selected for Modeconnect’s Daily Fashion News Round-Up.

Alexander Fury likened New York Fashion Week SS15 to a ‘frozen lasagne’, commenting that the collections presented were ‘pre-packed, easily consumed, serviceable but frequently lacking spice’. Fury also observed that ‘Referencing is rife in New York. Well, there’s a certain safety in numbers: it’s difficult to single out a designer for remembrance of fashion collection’s past when it seems everyone is at it.’

The question was whether designers we rely on to produce innovative, avant-garde collections should be looking back to the past for design inspiration or to the future for unseen fashions? Carolina Herrera proved that moving forward with a brand is possible, braving a ‘refashion [in] her formula’ to broaden her clientele, addressing the millennial generation with a collection of ‘Asian-inspired precision’.

From one extreme to another, other commentators were much more positive, describing New York Fashion Week as ‘Trippy, intoxicating, buzz-inducing fashion’. The predominant presence of technology innovation throughout NYFW can only have strengthen this impression, from the spectacular 4D presentation at Ralph Lauren to a HD Stonehenge exhibition at Gareth Pugh. Creativity was rife in shows such as Rodarte’s futuristic-punk-mermaids and Marc Jacobs with his military model clones, circling around a giant ‘Pepto-pink’ faux-farmhouse.

Though the fashions may not evolve dramatically at New York Fashion Week, the way in which the collections are presented unquestionably was. Opening Ceremony exhibited its collection in the form of a one-act play, where the pieces functioned as theatrical costumes presenting a story of clichéd dramas faced during Fashion Week. Gareth Pugh put on not a show, but a theatrical, fantastical performance in an immense space ‘fusing the hi-tech with British folklore’.

Find-out more with our selection of reviews below.

 


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 8, 2014

Alexander Wang pumps it up with a show of tricksy, tricked-out American sportswear

 

“It was tricksy, tricked-out American sportswear, which is becoming something of a key note of New York fashion Week (hopefully, not a one-note key note). That souped-up sports stuff isn’t just what Wang and his customers want, it’s what the designer is genuinely good at. Hence the fact that the show’s youthful verve, boundless energy and confidence which came from the clothes, rather than styling gimmicks. There was some muscle to these clothes.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 8, 2014

Too many New York designers stick to tried and tested recipes that lack spice and originality

 

“That is true of a great deal of the fashion world right now, designer after designer offering tried and tested recipes, rather than challenging our palate with something new. The late Lee Alexander McQueen (who, incidentally, showed as part of New York Fashion Week twice) once said he’d rather people left his shows and vomited than have no reaction at all. I feel the same. It’s all about taste. Even bad is better than bland.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 8, 2014

Altuzarra makes the bourgeois kinky

 

“This collection was pretty good while being resolutely conventional […]. A creepy soundtrack plus references to Rosemary’s Baby in the notes were an effort to subvert straightforwardness – to spread his wholesome base with a layer of the unsettling. Within the clothes that tilt at creepiness was expressed via kinkiness: showpiece thick latticed leather jerkins and dresses over Lycra smacked of the dominatrix, and a near-the-end section of black and sheer lined with pearls was agonised Belle de Jour.

Read further on The Telegraph.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 8, 2014

Gareth Pugh SS15

 

“Once iPhone alerts buzzed nine, the crowd assembled in the vast room deep on Manhattan’s Lower East Side started to glance around, casually at first, then frantically. “Where do we sit? Where does it start?” It was hard to free our minds from the ingrained habit of “Here is your seating card, let me show you to your section.” There were no sections, just space. “Who am I in space?” was the question that seeded anxiety. And then the lights went off.

Read further on Dazed.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 9, 2014

Opening Ceremony: The Play Is Not the Thing

 

“So I thought: Maybe I am just having a Scrooge moment (although it’s a little early in fashion month for that to happen). Maybe I should sleep on this. Well, I have slept. I have awoken. And I have the same problem with the event, which seems to have been created to promulgate the idea of Opening Ceremony as the coolest brand in New York Fashion Week. And it probably succeeded in that aim but, at the same time, served to perpetrate the worst fashion stereotypes. I recognize that I may be alone in thinking this. But hear me out.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 9, 2014

Victoria Beckham and Altuzarra: elation, deflation and schadenfreude in New York

 

“That’s why many Victoria Beckham collections resemble a high-fashion supermarket sweep, scooping up references from different, not-too-distant collections and synthesising them into an almost-new whole. Last season I mentioned Beckham’s similarity to Celine. It was there again this time round, with a bit of Comme des Garçons, some Junya Watanabe, a huge dollop of Jil Sander.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 9, 2014

Carolina Herrera caters to the millennial generation for spring/summer 2015

 

“This season, however, Herrera grasped the nettle that Oscar de la Renta braved a year or two ago and tried to refashion her formula for the millennial generation. Materially that meant sticking with the basic recipe – clean, sharp cut day dresses, agelessly ladylike separates, and charity gala full-on frockery – but mixing up the ingredients.

 

Read further on The Telegraph.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 10, 2014

Some Get the Point: Tommy Hilfiger, Diane von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, the Row and More Show at Fashion Week

 

“After all, “what women want” is, theoretically at least, one of the existential questions at the heart of fashion. We circle back to it, season after season. As a result, shows are not a bad lens for looking at the complexity of the issue, though some designers are clearer in their answer than others (for good or ill) and some more nuanced. Certainly, it’s not a simple question — unless you are Tommy Hilfiger.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 10, 2014

Marc by Marc Jacobs at New York Fashion Week: A punchy fusion of tough and girly for a fresh generation

 

“If there has been something of a singular voice to the New York spring/summer 2015 collections thus far – sports stuff, pastel colours, the bra top and trouser combo from a 2013 Balenciaga collection (we’ve seen that look everywhere) – there are still a few rebels in the pack, whose resolute refusal to conform to expectations manage to give the week a buzz. Two of the ring-leaders are British: Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, the creative and design directors, respectively, of the Marc by Marc Jacobs line.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 10, 2014

New York Fashion Week’s trippy, loopy, ode to creativity, beauty, technology and branding

 

“Trippy, intoxicating, buzz-inducing fashion. Soak it all in and you feel better than good. Perhaps you are in a grumpy mood. Or maybe you are tired. Then out come all these spring 2015 collections with their zesty prints dripping in sequins — a kaleidoscope of colors and patterns all swirling together like some hallucinatory dream. You stop thinking clearly, forgetting that these clothes are sure to be obscenely expensive. It doesn’t matter. It’s too late. You saw it. You breathed it all in. You are floating; you feel high. And it is legal.

Read further on The Washington Post.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 10, 2014

Rodarte SS15

 

“Could these be costumes for Sofia Coppola’s The Little Mermaid? The show began with 70s glam pirates in flouncy blouses and white jeans, hook belts and anoraks with pockets covered in rope netting. Slowly the women became mermaids caught in nets, walking out in dresses with asymmetrical hems hanging like seaweed, beading shimmering like it was catching the sun through water or arranged to look like sea foam, and nettle accents at the necklines.

Read further on Dazed.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 11, 2014

Michael Kors swings into the Fifties at New York Fashion Week

 

“Fashion thrives on fantasy but to sell in any great number, the clothes it inspires must be fit for the real world. Today at New York Fashion Week Michael Kors delivered a master class in delivering both sides of the equation. With The Ronettes clappily crooning Be My Baby on the PA, Kors had his next-summer fantasy territory defined even before the first model had hit the catwalk.

Read further on The Telegraph.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 11, 2014

The Making of Carolina Herrera’s Fashion Show

 

“At a little before 10 a.m. on Monday, the fifth day of New York Fashion Week, the backstage area at Lincoln Center was mobbed. Cameramen, designers, makeup artists and photographers were elbowing one another out of the way. The fashion executives Marc Puig and Ralph Toledano, each in expensively tailored suits, were chatting casually among the chaos. A few feet away, a member of Carolina Herrera’s atelier was steaming an enormous gown. And now it was showtime.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 12, 2014

Past, Present, Prologue: Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Proenza Schouler And More Show at Fashion Week

 

“The fact that the final day of the New York collections also happened to be Sept. 11 is the sort of jarring coincidence that portends a collision of worlds: On that day, in this city, a tragedy occurred. Remembering it, how can we sit merrily by and look at skirts? It seems an impossible disconnect. Except that fashion week and 9/11 have always been intertwined: On that day, in this city, the collections had already begun.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 12, 2014

Jason Wu gives Hugo Boss a boost at New York Fashion Week

 

“Jason Wu’s second outing for Hugo Boss delivered sleek, gently-demonstrative attire for conservative consumers of taste. Darkest-blue trousers and jackets came delicately edged with lighter, lurex-blue colouring. Dramatic show shoes – super high gladiators – played foil to straight-man fitted dresses gridded with Stanley knife rhomboidal pattern. Any flirtation with decadence was tempered with a stolid counterpoint; thus a sheer skirt was topped by a blazer.

Read further on The Telegraph.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 12, 2014

Marc Jacobs’ Latest Collection Captures War & Peace

 

“As usual, the Marc Jacobs show began on time and unfolded with military precision. That extended to the clothes— gold-buttoned coats and jumpsuits in olive drab, khaki, and navy, accented with oversized buttons and flower appliqués, and each topped with identical Polly Magoo-meets-Patti-Smith wigs. The models circulated around a massive Pepto-pink farmhouse that was constructed specially for the occasion.

Read further on The Cut.


Written by Ruby Frampton

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