Osman AW14: Mixed textures, block colours, exotic opulence and 60s prints
Fall collections often adhere to a decree of caliginous colours which ill-heartedly reflect the gloomy season. For Autumn Winter 2014, Osman Yousefzada chooses instead to indulge us in bright blocks and mixed textures with luxe metallics, rich jacquards, fur, mesh, fine art prints and a touch of sparkle. Inspired by the late actress, 60s style icon Talitha Getty and her Moroccan adventures, the collection presents exotic opulence upon trapezoidal tailoring and asymmetric hemlines. Think: oil fortune heiress goes to art school.
The opening look of the show, a sunny lattice t-shirt paired with an asymmetric arabesque-print skirt, blue scarf with gold fringing and glittering clutch bag, sets the tone. Neon yellow arm warmers bearing textured brocade add an inexplicable, yet welcomed quirkiness. This eclectic ensemble featuring many of the elements that run throughout the collection, does not however prepare us for the breadth of Osman’s luxurious offerings.
The yellow glittering mesh reappears over a skirt. A black version takes over the final sultry looks adorned with gold collars and sleeves. This mesh is used to great effect, particularly in the closing outfit, where with a deep front split, it overlays down to the ankles, a strappy blue mini dress.
A pale gold, lavishly ornate arabesque print is sculpted into all types of garments: from tops and trousers to angular tulip skirts and one-shouldered A-line tunics. Cut as a short-sleeved kimono suit, a blue version of the print is memorable.
The graphic prints are the most intriguing. Depicting manicured arms in the style of Saul Bass, wearing bangles and clutching purses, they embellish the show notes and appear wherever they can on the garments. On skirts they create amusing and surreal trompe l’oeil effects, seemingly giving the models additional limbs.
Another print, eyes with immaculate brows and glossy eye shadow, sometimes staring ominously over Californian sceneries, appear singular on various shift garments, or in pair, like the eyes of big brother, on a jacket.
Whilst Osman channels a heady use of black, he delivers the rest of his palette through eye-popping blocks. Fall 2014 has been feeling rather blue, hasn’t it? The colour is to be seen everywhere. Osman adopts a bright kingfisher hue paired against vivid oranges and yellows. His azure packs a big punch in a fur used for scarves and statement coats. Osman also features a lovely teal embossed on distressed brocade.
The blue brocade peeps out of a few separates until it gains momentum as a slinky gown that flatters the figure with gathered fabric forming a curvilinear sash across the body. Just like with the rest of his fabrics, Osman provides multiple colour options, with articles available in orange/pink, ivory and yellow.
Oh stop, Mr Yousefzada, you’re really spoiling us!