Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 in Reviews

Posted by on Nov 9, 2014 in Global View | No Comments

 

Sex, Feminism, Heritage & Futurism: It was Paris Fashion Week

 

Spring Summer 2015 collections were shown at Paris Fashion Week between the 23rd of September to the 1st of October. Below is a selection of reviews of various designers presented at Paris Fashion Week previously selected for Modeconnect’s Daily Fashion News Round-Up.

Sex appeal was plentiful throughout Paris Fashion Week and according to Shayne Oliver, there was no better location for it: “In New York, having an ego is okay. But having a superego is frowned upon. So why not come to where there’s a ballroom of excess, where we wouldn’t be seen as extra-terrestrials”. With ‘thong underwear masquerading as show invitations’ it was evident that Sex would be a running theme before the shows had even begun. Robin Givhan commented that “There is very little middle ground in fashion. A design house is either focused on sex appeal or it is keen on pragmatism”. On one hand the likes of Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci channelled seductiveness through ‘leather, lace, grommets and corsetry, all in black and white’, and on the other was Stella McCartney with pyjama suits ‘profoundly, pedestrianly rinsed of sex’ [Alexander Fury].

From the sexualisation of the female figure to feminism: ‘In the finale to the most anticipated show of Paris fashion week, Chanel models strutted down the catwalk brandishing placards demanding women’s rights, in a faux protest that was simultaneously hailed as a breakthrough for a new wave of feminism and decried as consumerist claptrap.’ [Alexandra Topping] Karl Lagerfeld’s unexpected culmination of the Chanel SS15 collection brought fashion and feminism in the same sphere – something we have never seen before at a Fashion Week. Some saw this as genius and some as a marketing stunt – consider that Lagerfeld once stated that ‘no one wants to see curvy women’. However, the introduction of feminism into fashion can essentially make it ‘fashionable’, increasing awareness and understanding of a real, current, worldwide issue: ‘I think this just shows that fashion, feminism and empowering women do not have to be mutually exclusive.’ [Trish Halpin]

From one show to the next, fashion buyers and commentators felt as though they were travelling through time and space during Paris Fashion Week: ‘Thinking back or looking forward. Those are the opposing poles of contemporary fashion and nowhere are they juxtaposed with greater contrast than in Paris’ [Alexander Fury] Louis Vuitton wanted to ‘explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving’ with forward fabrics in their SS15 collection, all exhibited in a building that resembled the Starship Enterprise. Raf Simmons vision with Dior presented a collection of hybrid garments encompassing ‘decades and references…that allowed observers to scroll through centuries in a single glance.’

Find-out more in our selection of reviews below.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 24, 2014

Welcome to Paris Fashion Week, your thong is in the mail

 

“The spring 2015 fashion season began today with the arrival of two pairs of thong underwear masquerading as show invitations – two different unrelated shows, mind you — and a dollar bill stamped with the date and time of a third presentation. They were only the most startling in a growing pile of handwritten note cards, machine-stamped cardboard squares, elaborately folded posters, a beauty pageant sash, a strip of rubber and a small plastic box filled with moss, all cordially inviting the recipient to the unveiling of a designer’s particular vision of women’s ready-to-wear for the coming spring.

Read further on The Washington Post.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 25, 2014

At Paris Fashion Week, fantasies made real — and reality gone missing

 

“There were parts of the collection that were almost minimalist and vaguely humanistic, such as a short-sleeved, white dress with decorative seams forming a diamond pattern. […] Wang’s great strength since arriving at Balenciaga in 2012 has been infusing the storied house with energy, optimism and an elegant informality. This collection had an abundance of technical wizardry, but its silhouettes were often constraining and its use of color lethargic. But most important, there was no sense of place.

Read further on The Washington Post.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 25, 2014

A Carpet Spread With Riches – Dries Van Noten and Yang Li

 

“For his part, Mr. Van Noten took the high road — or the low road — or to be most accurate, what looked like a green road, spotted by seeming clumps of moss and other arid succulents but that turned out to be a carpet hand-tufted by the Buenos Aires-based artist Alexandra Kehayoglou that Mr. Van Noten had commissioned to double as a catwalk.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 26, 2014

At Paris Fashion Week, Something Old and Something New

 

“This is not surprising at a brand like Ann Demeulemeester, whose namesake founder left last November, and which is now designed by Sebastien Meunier, her longtime colleague. In such a situation, the first commandment is often consistency, and so it seemed, judging by the flowing layers of white shirting and black waistcoats, the cropped denim and silk jackets. Still, while there were a few too many strings attached to the garments, literally and figuratively, the mix of prints and occasional pastel suggested the possibility of a less fettered future.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 26, 2014

At Paris Fashion Week, a battle over breasts

 

“In his work, Rousteing has remained true to the reborn house’s aesthetic of rock-star extravagance and YouTube insouciance. His clothes are for dreamers, for millionaires who enjoy playing make-believe. But the collection he put on the runway at the Grand Hotel on Thursday afternoon was not enviable. The shoulders of his jackets were overwhelming and awkward. The trousers sat uncomfortably high on the waist, but not so high that they forced the eye to evaluate them as part of a new proportion. Mostly, however, the clothes did not look contemporary or even coolly retro.

Read further on The Washington Post.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 26, 2014

At Paris Fashion Week, Two Kinds of Road Trips – Vionnet, Carven and Aganovich

 

““We have a collective concern,” a Vogue editor hissed to an organizer when the Vionnet show, set in a “No Exit”-feeling narrow space at the bottom of the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine on Wednesday night, threatened to start long past its appointed hour of 7 p.m. “We cannot miss Balenciaga!” These two houses of great historical significance, awoken after dormant periods, are at very different points in their brand management.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 29, 2014

In Paris, joy and pain from Jean Paul Gaultier and Comme des Garçons

 

“Two of the most satisfying shows of the current Paris season showed nothing anyone would ever want to wear. No great loss. And no insult, or injury. That was the point, in fact, of both Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons collection and Jean Paul Gaultier’s final ready-to-wear show. Nevertheless, they could not have been more different: something old, versus something new. Looking forward, and looking back.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 29, 2014

Looking to the past to find the future – Loewe, Dior, Paco Rabanne and Nina Ricci

 

“PARIS – The spring 2015 season has been a convoluted web of design house debuts, continuing renovations and rumored last shows. The comings and going are all in the name of making better clothes, making women swoon and making cash registers sing. The Spanish leather goods house Loewe premiered the first women’s ready-to-wear collection by its new designer, Jonathan William Anderson, a 2005 graduate of the London School of Fashion with his own signature label.

Read further on The Washington Post.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 29, 2014

Paris Fashion Week 2014: Back to the future as labels bank on the appeal of time travel

 

“Thinking back or looking forward. Those are the opposing poles of contemporary fashion and nowhere are they juxtaposed with greater contrast than in Paris. Perhaps that’s because the city attracts a depth and breadth of talent unequalled elsewhere. Maybe it’s because the city itself is a bit like living inside a history book, and for many designers it can be like working inside one. There are so many age-old labels kept vibrant by fresh transfusions of young talent.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 29, 2014

The Melting Pot à La Mode – Dior, Lanvin, Nina Ricci and Rick Owens

 

“It’s hard not to wonder sometimes, as we sit idly by waiting for a show to start in, say, the Tuileries (where Nina Ricci was held) or the École des Beaux-Arts (Lanvin) or a hidden courtyard of the Louvre (Dior) or the Palais de Chaillot (Rick Owens) — or, indeed, any of the many historic French institutions where prêt-à-porter can be found — what Marine Le Pen, leader of the far-right National Front, preacher of “France for the French,” euro-skeptic and increasingly popular potential presidential candidate, would think.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 29, 2014

Dior SS15 ready-to-wear Paris Fashion Week: Hybrid garments that allowed observers to scroll through the centuries in a single glance

 

“In July, Raf Simons used his Dior haute couture show to make a statement about inventing the future by reinventing the past. He collaged together disparate costume elements from the here and now with the then and there to create arresting, even alarming juxtapositions. Simons evidently hadn’t finished: he revisited the idea for his spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear show. Call it a remix, scrambling as it did decades and references into new hybrid garments that allowed observers to scroll through centuries in a single glance.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 30, 2014

Blood and Roses, Circles and Swans. Jean Paul Gaultier, Céline, Comme des Garçons & More

 

“But the message was about how you could transform a nominally sad occasion — retirement, at least from the most visible part of fashion — into one marked by joy. A reminder, if any were needed, that this kind of transubstantiation is what fashion does. Or should do, anyway, when it is doing its job. It takes the difficulties and confusion and complication of the world around it and remakes them into something manageable. Occasionally beautiful. Ideally (though not always), thought-provoking.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 30, 2014

At Paris Fashion Week: Picking sides — sexy or pragmatic? Guess which one the male designers chose.

 

“There is very little middle ground in fashion. A design house is either focused on sex appeal or it is keen on pragmatism – keeping in mind that a woman will have to walk, work and live in the proposed garments. Often, the aesthetic divide is also a gender one. Male designers like to truss up their female models with corsets and body-hugging skirts; female designers have a penchant for a looser, more forgiving silhouette. The differences run head to toe.

Read further on The Washington Post.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 30, 2014

Turn to the Light and Watch Your Back. Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Chloé and More

 

“It’s the opposite of Stella McCartney, a brand founded on the principle that you should never look like you are trying too hard (an idea that, of course, takes quite a lot of work to realize). Witness this season’s washed-silk pastel jumpsuits and matching trench coats and anoraks, the plaid pajama suiting for day, and the ribbed knits cut to flash a half-moon of skin here, a bit of waist there. Belt buckles held up tunic straps and closed deep V-necks, and a series of print flou dresses swirled around the legs like water.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On September 30, 2014

Dividing Along Tribal Lines. Kenzo, Isabel Marant & Acne

 

“If there’s a tribe to be glimpsed on Ms. Marant’s runways, it is her own, mirrored in the stands and in the streets by the women who have made a cult of her clothes. Their adoration may have hemmed her in. The collection included pieces sure to please her fans […] but didn’t dispel a niggling sense that she has become the prisoner of her success and in danger of growing formulaic — or worse, stale.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On October 1, 2014

Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld cheered and jeered for ‘feminist’ fashion statement

 

“On Tuesday 30 September 2014 the unthinkable happened: feminism entered the realm of high fashion. In the finale to the most anticipated show of Paris fashion week, Chanel models strutted down the catwalk brandishing placards demanding women’s rights, in a faux protest that was simultaneously hailed as a breakthrough for a new wave of feminism and decried as consumerist claptrap.

Read further on The Guardian.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On October 1, 2014

A tale of two cities: sex and sensibility, from Givenchy, Celine and Stella McCartney

 

“When the models began to take their complex turns at the Givenchy show on Sunday night, whizzing around the venue as if ricocheting around a pinball machine (the hairpin bends, I must confess, made me feel a bit sick), the first thing I thought was: well. It’s been a while since we saw this. This being sex. Or rather, sexy. or rather, a certain idea of sexiness.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On October 1, 2014

Reinventions, Just in Time. Chanel, Valentino, Saint Laurent & More

 

“Besides, this an industry obsessed with, and predicated on, the new. And even three weeks after its introduction, the Apple Watch apparently still qualifies. Unlike some of the stuff on the runways. Perhaps because of some of the stuff on the runways. Like, for example, Saint Laurent. A slam-bam, fast and furious, hard rock tour of the designer Hedi Slimane’s three favorite silhouettes — the A-line baby doll minidress; the slick trouser suit; and the thigh-high miniskirt or shorts with jacket — in more combinations than Joseph’s coat of many colors.

Read further on The New-York Times.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On October 1, 2014

Paris Fashion Week: Sarah Burton stamps her aesthetic on Alexander McQueen

 

“A twin pair of Marc Quinn orchid sculptures dominated the spring Alexander McQueen catwalk, like great pieces of carved-out daikon radish slapped into the middle of a lacquered bento box. They were gargantuan, even dwarfing the typically attenuated McQueen models, hiked up on platform boots with a curving calligraphic heel. And they got the point across concisely – exotic, oriental, feminine. All pointers Sarah Burton wanted you to pick up in the clothes.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On October 2, 2014

Paris Fashion Week, spring/summer 2015: Time travel fashion at Louis Vuitton in Paris

 

“If last season was Ghequiere in revolutionary mode – all that off-white carpet blanketing the Cour Carrée back in March made the point explicit that he was wiping the slate clean – this time it felt evolutionary. Maybe that’s why were were abducted into the bowels of a spaceship to examine Ghesquiere’s fashion specimens at close quarters. After the jolt of the new that accompanied winter, this sat easier on the eye.

Read further on The Independent.


Featured In Modeconnect’s Fashion News Round-Up On October 3, 2014

A Paris Fashion Week of Farewells

 

“So Peter Copping has officially left Nina Ricci — the company announced his departure Thursday, thanking him for his contribution though not explaining why the move — thus finally confirming what may have been the most widely accepted-as-gospel leaving rumor in fashion history, and capping off what may also have been the farewell-heaviest, most rumor-bound, Paris season in recent memory.

Read further on The New York Times Fashion.


Written by Ruby Frampton

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