Interesting textiles and great potential
At GFW 2015 De Montfort University Leicester showed a broad range of womenswear, menswear and fashion knitwear. With students being fortunate enough to work with the excellent print and knit facilities that the school offers, collections were able to boast their unique, one-off fabrics and reach for new limits.
Promoting itself for pushing towards individuality, DMU show was expected to showcase a wondrous variety of styles. Indeed collections were loaded with a vast range of material, clearly a focus of the students. Silhouettes were relatively straightforward; attention was clearly on fabrics.
All Images by Anna Wytrazek
Michelle Smith presented her menswear line first. Like a scene out of Michael Jackson’s ‘Smooth Criminal’, the models swaggered to the end of the catwalk. Despite the adorning flower prints and gold pinstripes, these guys looked like they could do some damage. Trousers hung loosely below the waist, comfortable along with large sleeveless jackets two sizes up, reminiscent of 60’s gangster movies. Tilted fedora hats and gold chains hanging over trouser pockets fit the brief perfectly, but a moonwalk or two wouldn’t have hurt anyone.
Florence Tudgay, a finalist for the Sophie Hallette Design challenge, showed promise with her textile designs. By covering her floral embroidered lacework with plastic material, Tudgay turned her fabric heavy and patent but kept it charmingly detailed.
Sights of faux fur and tartan in square ordered patchwork were paired alongside rubbery textiles with chain acting as the seams between materials. From seeing her textile portfolio to then seeing the beautiful textiles in her designs, the end result seemed very visually heavy and quite overwhelming.
Carmela Devivo worked by heavily fraying her woven fabric and attaching it together to create simple, fitted silhouettes. Positioning of pink and black tonal frays were collected in gradients to resemble Pointillism painting. Fabric stuck out from distressed warp threads creating a fluffy finish, similar to that of layered feathers. Some pieces were paired with an underlayer of lace stylised to contrast, along with a dash of faux fur that sat snug in a rich shades of pink, purple and turquoise.
Catriona Pringle took ribbon weave, a popular technique of the De Montfort students, to new high. A mix of nautical and fluorescent thick straps were intertwined into straw netting, paired well with diagonal colour blocking amongst her wide leg trousers and a-lined-like dresses. The designer’s work took a clean approach with her creations but each element spoke coherently and the collection was admired for this trait.
At GFW 2015, De Montfort University fashion students showed interesting textiles and great potential. They are sure to prove a great asset to the fashion industry for their creative ideas.