Brighton Front

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University of Brighton took an edgy approach to their Graduate Fashion Week 2015 show

While monochrome colour schemes were popular throughout the University of Brighton student collections, it was the silhouettes and materials that differentiated the students’ work. Throughout their GFW 2015 show, they demonstrated a close attention to cut, textiles and finish, with a number of collections playing with edging.

Sophie Mannion’s colour palette included yellows, lilacs and blues. The shape of her clothing varied, with peplum tops, and scooped edged trousers making for a series of unusual, but pleasing silhouettes. Mannion’s pieces also featured an interesting use of textures, such as the buttons on the coat being edged with fur. Similarly, rough textured tops were paired, with softer, satin-like culottes. This mixture of cuts, colours, textures and shapes made for a complex, yet clean collection.

All Images by Alexandra Cryle

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Hiu-Wing Chan’s collection offered variations on long silhouettes. Chan kept a navy and grey colour scheme through the primary use of denim. Peplum style tops shared the stage with boyish shirts, and flared trousers. Denim handbags completed the looks. By keeping the palette simple, Chan managed to create an effective impact through relaxed silhouettes, and well-made pieces.

The choice of edge finishing techniques was the highlight of Maria Do Mar Zhan’s work. Using a mixture of raw edges, carefully constructed seams and clean-cut edges. Zhan showed these low-impact areas are also part of the design. She also displayed variety, by creating coats, dresses, trousers and tops, in a broad variety of materials.


 

Once again, the complexity of a collection was hidden by minimalistic aesthetic choices.

Christina Chin showcased a cool, calm and collected collection. With the occasional splash of green or lilac, the collection consisted of monochromatic whites. The pieces could have been made specifically for the tennis court. Cut out sleeves gathered around the arms by an elasticated band revealed an Asian influence. The rest of the collection was all finished with a high level of accuracy. Chin’s simple use of colour and style allowed for a variation of silhouettes too, maturing from girl to lady. Teamed with a visor and umbrella, the checked shirt and skirt combination almost reached perfection.


 

Daniel Urling-Brown’s collection had impact, because of its beauty. Initially sheer white veils, reaching down to the waist, hinted at bridal wear. Starting with a scarlet bride, the colour of each outfit was incrementally toned down to eventually reach white. The dresses were classic in style, yet complex in construction. Close to the body and with bouffant bottoms, the silhouettes exuded glamour.

Overall, University of Brighton showed well-constructed collections. Often minimalist and with simple colour schemes they were precisely made, with a real focus on finishing techniques and textiles – also designed by the students. The GFW 2015 catwalk show demonstrated flair and technicality.


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Written by Safah Ahmed

Safah Ahmed

Safah Ahmed is a student at the London College of Fashion, studying MA Fashion Media Practice and Criticism. She has always had a passion for creativity, and channels this through her love for writing about fashion. She hopes to pursue a career in fashion writing and criticism, in the future.

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