Diversity reigns at University of East London
The individuality of University of East London’s fashion students was clearly stated at GFW 2015. Two years ago, new head of fashion, Dorota Watson initiated a shift from ready to wear collections to more creative designs. Colourful and full of prints, the young designers treated the public to a great variety of fabrics and styles. The course’s description explains how University of East London means to establish strong handcraft skills and build ‘conceptual expertise’; these were demonstrated on the GFW catwalk.
Shabana Begum led UEL’s show with a menswear summer collection. All garments were accessorized with sports caps, trainers, bags and geometrical designs, made of several rectangular tickets of fabric. The style evoked a distressed techno look with bright orange, yellow and blue patterns. The white cotton garments had an overlay of appliqués, creating a 3D effect that recalled a sports movement. Perfect for summer.
All Images by Alexandra Cryle
Working for designer Gareth Pugh likely influenced Faye Hindle’s final collection. Indeed, her unusual silhouettes and additions of fabrics were reminiscent of the designer. Her white and cream winter collection resembled vertical Venetian blindfolds with exaggerated knife pleats. All the layers of different fabrics like cotton, fur, wool and leather referred to winter clothing for a warm but stylish collection.
Danielle Davies focused her design work on manipulating sequins onto leggings, a jumpsuit and dresses. On the jumpsuit, a beautiful midnight blue was highlighted by light emerald green adding depth to the outfit.
Although the shape was loose and formless, the outfits were highly feminine. The bejewelled collection truly was eye catching.
‘Monument’, by Yuri Pardi De Oliviera, stood out and the unusual cubism collection impressed the audience. The designer’s interest in minimalism explained the choice of taupe and black colours. The artistic shapes were meant to be looked at from the profile, and highlight construction skills.
Vilune Daunoraite presented an exceptionally well-made final collection. Using light brown leather to create crinoline structures she reminded us of understructures.
The designer underlined the delicacy these garments with flowers and soft pink fabrics. Effectively this resulted in her process having a twisting effect on the classic feminine silhouettes.
Finally, Gabriela Lottermann decided to revisit the Dominatrix trend in a sensual way. She covered the models with maxi black silk jerseys basing her collection on the innate sex appeal of women. The designer highlighted the dark drapes with red lips and red ribbons. It was simple but breath taking, and the perfect way to bring UEL’s show to close.